Beer Feeds

Anyone have suggestions on where to get an affordable kettle? I have about $300 set aside for beer supplies, ingredients and equipment. Right now the best I have found is a 40 qt one from Northern Brewer for about $180, $220 if I want the thermometer. I usually do 5 gallon batches, but would like to go big enough to do a solid boil on an 8-10 batch without too much topping up.

15 gallon ones are A too expensive and B. Might be too large for a normal 5 gal boil. That is what I was looking in the 10 gallon range. I am wondering if there is some place to get a quality pot for cheap and modify it with weldless fittings. Then maybe save enough for a pump to move all this liquid around.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

I am planning today to head over to Lowes Home Improvement and investigation buying a filter and housing so I can filter the beers that I have brewed and kegged. I am wondering if anyone can tell me, does buying the filter setup from them make more sense than say a LHBS and if you do go to Lowes can you still buy the 1 micron filter for the set up. I am just trying to figure what the best and economical way to go about this would be too. I would like to be able to filter out material and remove the yeast also before I start to force carbonate the beers. In addition are you using beverage line from a LHBS to connect the kegs and filter housing too? Thanks for the feedback

Mike

I'm planning a trip to Denver at the end of September, and I know that there are a lot of breweries there. Anyone have any recommendations? I'm planning on going to the New Belgium Brewery, and the Breckinridge Brewery. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Seeds of paradise - do you crush them before throwing them in the boil pot?

Brewed my second batch yesterday. Have a couple of questions. How long after pitching yeast and I am not seeing any activity should I become concerned. In the event that fermentation does not start, what should I do? I do not have a backup pack of yeast.(that will not happen again)

Is the end. After 9 or so hours of hard work, the last thing you want to do is clean up. I really hate it. You get your wort in your carboy, aerate it, pitch your yeast, wipe your brow and tell yourself well done. Then you turn around and see your empty brewpot with hop sediment caked on it, your wort chilller in the same shape, not to mention your siphon tubing and racking cane. Bleh. I try and clean as much stuff as I can as I go. My mash tun gets cleaned once I'm finished with it and have the wort at a steady boil, for instance. But still... It's a stage I could do without! Having said all that, I'm sure there are people on here who just love the clean up phase.

Does anyone have a clone for Schlafly Special Export IPA?

OK, I've got two pounds of Argo corn starch and two pounds of milled six-row, tomorrow I need to pick up some iodine for starch testing, and then I'll brew my first starch beer, to be fermented in a three-liter keg.

Step 1 is to find out how much starch a pound of six-row can convert to sugars. I thought I'd mash a pound of six-row with 12 oz of starch, do an iodine test, and then add more starch or more six-row until I get a handle on how much starch I can convert. Anyone have a better guess than adding 12 oz of starch as a first guess?

Step 2 is to brew about two liters of the starch beer, I thought I'd add just a tad of hops so it's not too sweet, I suspect it will be kinda bland but don't really know. Anyone out there want to predict the taste or the overall impression?

Step 3 is to devise a recipe which takes advantage of the unique flavor and aroma of starch beer. I know it's too soon to make sound judgements now, but any ideas you might have here are welcome. I think of starch beer as a white canvas, to be painted upon by flavorful malts, adjuncts, and hops. I'm quite leaning toward using starch beer as strike and sparge water for a sort of ultra-IIPA, but of course it's too soon to tell.

So help an Oldfart figure out how to do this mess, please...

OF

So as I mentioned in another thread, I did used to brew extract brews years ago. Bu since this is the first batch in 12+ years, the first all-grain batch ever, and all new equipment, I'm pretty much considering this my first real brew day. It went pretty well, with a few things that didn't quite go as planned.

For equipment I was using a 10 gallon mega-brew stainless brewpot from Northern Brewer, with spigot. The mash tun is a converted 10 gallon rubbermaid drinking water cooler with a false bottom. The burner was a 55,000 BTU Camp Cooker. The primary is a 6.5 gallon glass carboy. For water I used 4 x 2.5 gallon jugs of spring water. Our house water goes through a water softener and that didn't seem like a good idea.

I started last night with a 1 quart starter in a 1000 ml flask. The yeast was white labs English Ale (0002). The starter showed signs of life within a couple of hours and peaked overnight. It was still going this AM, but slowing down and starting to settle.

At 10 AM I dumped 7.5 gallons of water into the brewpot. My grain (10# american 2-row pale malt, 1# 60L crystal) was 68 degrees, and I was starting with 16 quarts, so the water was to be 164. When I hit 164 I started adding 2 qts at a time to the mash, stirring every so often. It was more difficult to get fully mixed that I thought and I had to work it quite a bit even aafter 4 gallons were in. Finally I took a temp and it was 154. I put the lid on and set a timer for 60 minutes. After 20 minutes, curiosity took over and I opened it up to check the temp. 154. I closed it up until the hour was up.

After 60 minutes I hooked rubber tubing to the spigot and drained off a couple of quarts. Lots of husks and such. I repeated this a few times and it never cleared up as much as I anticipated. I knew it'd be cloudy, but it stll seemed to be allowing more little flakes through than I expected. (I was returing to wort to the mash through a pizza pan with little holes in it, so I don't think I was stirring it up too much.) Eventually, i just drained it off. Got about 2.25 gallons.

I added another 2.75 gallons at 170 degrees and left it 10 minutes. I drained that off and now had 5 gallons collected. I was shooting for 6.5 pre-boil, so I added another 1.5 gallons (I assumed the grain was saturated by now) and left it 10 minutes. While I was waiting I dumped the rest of the hot water to get the brewpot ready for the wort.

Mistake. For some reason, after the final sparge I only had 6 gallons, not the 6.5 I wanted. And I'd dumped the hot water. I considered just adding .5 gallons of bottled water, but decided not to. So I started the boil with 6 gallons. I managed (barely) to get a boil going without a boil over (it was close) and went to add the first hops, .75 (8.2 AA) Perle. And then I tripped and dropped the hops all over the deck. After swearing loudly, I managed to collect probably 90% of them and tossed them in. At 30 minutes I tossed in another .75 oz Perle. With 15 minutes left I added 1 tsp irish moss, and dropped in the wort chiller. With 10 mintues left I added .5 oz Kent Goldings (4.5 AA) and at 2 minutes another .5 oz KG. At 60 minutes I shut off the flame.

I started water through the chiller and stirred the wort every minute or so with a sanitized spoon. It cooled down pretty quickly, just a few minutes. When it got to about 72 I pulled the chiller out. (I wanted to pitch between 65-68, and I figured it'd lose a couple more degrees during the transfer.

During the boil I'd filled the carboy with sanitizer, and set up a big tray of sanitizer with all of equipment in it. I emptied the carboy, attached some sanitized tubing to the kettle spigot, and started the transfer. About midway I snuck out a sample for the hydrometer. A quick test showed 1.060. Too high I thought. So I figured that I wasn't going to get 5 gallons, and I didn't. It came up short of my mark in the primary, and looks to me to be about 4.5 gallons. Bummer. (Adjusting the batch size in pro mash to 4.5 gallons with an OG of 1.060 shows 68% efficiency. Also shows that the IBU's will be 57.6 in the smaller batch, though I did lose a small amount in the tripping mishap.)

I moved the fermenter inside and after wiping some sanitizer over the yeast starter flask, I pitched it. I aerated the wort using some tubing and an airstone (all sanitized) using one of those mini oxygen tanks from the hardware store. After awhile (I didn't time it) I sealed it up with a sanitized air lock, dumped in some vodka, wrapped a towl around it and left it in the corner of the basement. It's usually around 68 degrees down there. That was about 2.5 hours ago. No overt signs of fermentation yet, but I'd not really expect that. The starter went well so I'm sure I'll see action within a few hours.

So that's it. Did I do OK? I was all alone, not that help is really required. I paid close attention to sanitation and I don't think I made any obvious blunders there. I was bummed about only getting 4.5 gallons though.

What would you guys have done? Would you have added some additional water to the boil? Topped off the fermenter with some water to bring it up to 5 gallons? Or just left it at 4.5 like I did? What about the perceived extra junk coming through in the sparge. Does that seem normal? I did use a handheld kitchen strainer and strained quite a bit out while it was heating up for the boil. Maybe I expected it to be clearer that it's supposed to be.

I anticipate moving this to a secondary (a 5 gallon glass carboy) in a week or so depending on how quickly it goes. Then kegging in a corny keg a couple of weeks after that.

So I suppose that's all just old hat for you guys, but not for me. Any suggestions on my process?

Well, over the past few months I have asked many stupid, foolish and some just plan of dumb questions about how to build my brew rig. Sorry to disappoint you but, I;m not done asking questions and probably never will be but just so all you don't think that your time and efforts have gone to waste replying to my questions I decided to post some update pics.

Now before you read and expect a fully complete and operational brew rig, I'll let you know it's still in progress. I'm hoping by the end of the weekend to have the pump installed, fully wired and hopefully have the QD's on picked up or on order! I'm heading the Lowes tonight for the ball valves and other connectors for the pump.

SO, I hope you enjoy... feedback is encourage, suggestion, remarks and comments... PLEASE

Full Front View


Close UP Front View


March Pump Close up (not wired or plumbed)


Boiling Burner with Guard Front View


Boiling Burner with Guard Top View


HLT Burner Front View


So I hope you enjoyed, and just a word of appreciation to every those how have help me out along the way.

SIDE NOTE... still looking for input and assistance with a control panel! Something with 2 Love Controllers, Timer, 110v outlets, Pump Switch, and most likely a Stir Motor Switch. Ideas and thoughts are great appreciated as usually, please keep in mind I'm not an electrician and nor do I pretend to be.

Thanks
Dana

I just started kegging and have 2 under my belt now. I've got a new batch fermenting now but I just 'floated' the keg in the fridge. I have 2 cases of Brown Ale we brewed just before our first keg. The beer has sat in an interior closet because when I converted my fridge for kegs there is no room left for bottled beer. Other than the risk of contamination, can you theoretically pour the bottled beer into the keg and have easier dispensing (and a place for the beer). I figured you wouldn't risk oxidation and all the sediment will settle and pour out in the first few glasses. In my head this would work, but you guys know a lot more than I do.

Any thoughts?

I'm brewing an IPA with this hop schedule:
1 oz Magnum for 60
1 oz Centennial for 10
1 oz Simcoe for 5
1 oz Amarillo DH

I've got everything but the Simcoe. None of the substitutions charts list a sub for simcoe. A google search turned up little info. Someone on probrewer said magnum might be a decent sub, another said magnum+cascade, others gave more complicated combinations. All focused around the low-cohumulone content of Simcoe, in addition to it's resiny/catpee aroma.

What do you all think? I've got a decent selection of hops avaliable to me (below) What do you guys think about individual subs or combinations?


Amarillo
Cascade hops
Centennial
Chinook
Columbus
Saaz
Magnum
Northern Brewer
Santiam
Sterling
Wilammette

I need to replace my hose. I can't find RV hose at the lowes that I go to. Does anyone have an online source with a part number. I don't know the diferrence between regular hose other than I hear RV hose is better. I can live with either 5/8 or 3/4

I'm going to the Dayton Ale Fest (AleFest) in a couple of weeks and wanted to get opinions on breweries that I should not miss - see anyone on this list that I should make sure I go see?


Abbaye d’Leffe
Abita
Alesmith
Allagash
Anchor
Asia-Pacific
Avery
Ayinger
Bar Harbor
Barrel House
Baron’s
Bavik
Bear Republic
Belhaven
Bell’s
Bitburger
Black Sheep
Blue Dawg
Boddington
Breckenridge
Brooklyn
Buckeye
Buffalo Bill’s
Celis
Chimay Trappist
Chouffe
Christian Moerlein
Clausthaler
Crooked Creek
DAB
DeProeuf
Dogfish Head
DuBocq
Duboisson
DuPont
Flying Dog
Fort Collins
Founders
Franziskaner
Goose Island
Great Lakes
Green Flash
Hacker-Pschorr
Harbin
Harpoon
Heavy Seas
Hoegaarden
Hoppin’ Frog
Kaiser
Kirin
Kronenbourg
Lagunitas
Lakefront
Left Hand
Leinenkugel
Lindemans
Lion
Listermann
Magic Hat
Margaritaville
McAuslan
Michael Plank
Moretti
Mortgaat Duvel
Moylans
Ommegang
Orval Trappist
Otter Creek
Paulaner
Penn
Pyramid
Rogue
Singha
Smithwicks
Southampton
Southern Tier
Spanish Peaks
Spaten
Spoetzl
St. Peters Organic
Staropramen
Steinlager
Stella Artois
Stone
Stoudt’s
Straub
Summit
Taj Mahal
Tennent’s
Theakston’s
Thirsty Dog
Tommyknocker
Toohey’s
Traquair House
Tröegs
Two Brothers
Unibroue
Van Steenburge
Victory
Warsteiner
Westmalle Trappist
Weyerbacher
Widmer Brothers
Wychwood
Young’s

This is a question I have been wondering. Usually the beer doesn't last more than 3 months on my shelf after bottling. But I do have this Stout that I bottled in Feb and I opened one last night and it had changed still..better flavors with more complexity. Now...will it continue to keep changing..or is it about tapped out for change?? AND..will it keep for a year?? Has anyone kept beer in the bottle for up to a year or longer and still tasted roughly the same as the first couple you cracked open?

so first let me start off and say what this is for. Ill be going to a homebrew keg comp. in a couple of weeks. its a 4 hour drive to get there, and then ill need to keep the beer cold til the comp starts.

I have 2 entries.

I have noticed my mashtun cooler (70 qt) is the perfect size to fit a cornie.

so i need something for the other cooler. should i buy another one identical size and have 2 coolers? (the only cone i see with this is maybe damaging and having tio rebuild my mashtun)

or should i just buy this juge 120 qt i saw at walmart nd possibly fit both in it? (the only con i can see with this is... huge cooler with ice, 2 cornies and 10 gal of liquid might be a big difficult to lift/carry)

what do you guys think?

70 qt cooler

120 qt cooler

Posted: by SusurusIgnoramus (23 hours ago)

On this show we bid Arrah, formally of “Arrah and the Ferns“, and Keil goodbye. They are moving to Philly. On the plus side, we play 3 songs that could have been on a new album and a couple others Arrah recorded for a Portuguese short film. Some of these songs may appear in a future project. I am crossing my fingers.

Beers on this show were Coney Island Albino Python White Lager, Coney Island Sword Swallower Steel Hop Lager, HeBrew Rejewvenator, Bonus Beer Bob’s Pliny the Elder clone and Dieu du Ciel Péché Mortel. Good luck Arrah. I love your music.

DOWNLOAD SHOW #158

Fickle Peach Founder’s Tasting Menu

Rubaeus - Spinach Salad with Hot Bacon Raspberry Dressing

Dry Hopped Pale Ale - Camembert En Croute
Camembert cheese wheel stuffed with sauted Shiitake mushrooms,
tarragon & garlic; wrapped in pastry dough and baked. Sliced into 2
oz. wedges and served on thin slice of toasted french bread.

Dirty Bastard - Smoked Salmon & Gouda on Melba Rounds
Smoked salmon rolled with sliced Gouda cheese, served on melba toast
rounds.

Red’s Rye - Pulled Pork Sliders
Pork shoulder, simply seasoned with salt and pepper, slowed roasted
over hickory and hand pulled. Served on small sandwich buns with spicy
barbecue sauce.

Breakfast Stout - NY Cheesecake
‘Nuff said.

I have been told not to cover my brew kettle while the wort is cooling because it can lead to the presence of DMS in my beer. I've also heard that you should cover the brew kettle during cooling to avoid bacterial contamination. I've tried both methods and haven't noticed a discernable difference in my beer, but I'd still like to know which method is correct. So, to cover or not cover the brew kettle during cooling?

Thanks so much for your time and help.

I'm mashing a Southern Brown at the moment, anyone else brewing today? I'm brewing today so I can attend a big Mead Day event at Jess's place, Alt Bev, tomorrow.

Brew on!
-K90

Posted: by kyleec (16 hours ago)

http://adweek.blogs.com/adfreak/2008/07/imperial.html

Fantastic ad. Hilarius to boot.

Hey Guys,

So I've got some hop/krausen junk stuck around the sides of my Better Bottle. How can I get this out without taking a carboy cleaner to it and scratch up the surface? I've had it soaking in cleanser for a few days and it's still not really working. It seems to me all it needs is a little elbow grease.

Thanks!

Al

Posted: by chemmie (29 minutes ago)

When I set up my kegerator over a year ago, I decided to use This tubing (3/16 ID for beer; 5/16 ID for gas). The new tubing had a plastic smell, so I first soaked it in oxyclean, then in star san, then rinsed.

I have noticed, especially in my lighter beers, a very faint but distinct plastic taste/odor, mostly in the first pour of the day from any particular faucet. It smells like the tubing, so I'm sure that's where it's coming from. If I just dump the first 2-3 oz that was sitting in contact with the tubing, the next pour is fine. By the way, not many other people notice the taste/smell..... but I know it's there.

This has finally bothered me to the point to do something about it, so I'm thinking of changing out all my beer/gas lines. I've heard of many folks using this type of vinyl or pvc tubing without complaints, but it is clearly causing a problem for me. So..... my question is: what tubing do you guys use? Any issues with taste/odor? Where do you get it? What's the cost?

A related question: I have This CO2 manifold. I'd like to double the number of gas lines by splitting each outlet with a T or Y. Ideally, one with a 5/16" barb on one side, and 1/4" barbs on the other 2 sides. Any recommendations on what type of T to use and where to get it? (one that's food grade and won't impart any odor).

Thanks!

I don't remember where I purchased both the "hard" and the "soft" varieties, but I need more and I certainly find the flexible variety easier to work with in the kegerator. Do you know a good source?
Thanks

Check this out. Brewed a porter last night.

I'm afraid the wort will be contaminated with airborne backteria and go back into the airlock. I don't have the required vinyl tubing else I would just use a blow-off. This is after approx. 15hrs after pitching my yeast.

Got this email from Chris Punis general manager of Cambridge Brewing Company:

Hi There,

We're sorry for the short notice on this one,
but TONIGHT on the History Channel at 10pm,
please tune in to see a new show entitled
"THE WORKS" with host Daniel H. Wilson.


Tonight's episode is on that one thing we
all hold dear: BEER!

TheWorks film crew spent several days filming
here at Cambridge Brewing Company, delving
into the secrets of brewing and dispensing our
favorite beverage with CBC Brewmaster
Will Meyers and Lead Brewster Megan Parisi.
We first met Daniel and Company at the Beer
Advocate Extreme Beer Fest last January, and
they just followed us home.

Tonight, members of the History Channel's
THE WORKS production crew will be joining
us here at CBC to watch the show on our tv
while enjoying a number of handcrafted ales.
Please join us, or at least remember to tune in
at home or set your Tivo's. Cheers!

THE WORKS on The History Channel
Thursday, July 31st, 2008
10:00pm
http://www.history.com/minisites/the-works


Best Regards,

Chris

I was wondering if you really need to aerate/oxygenate your wort after chilling using a whirlpool around an IC. Anybody have an opinion?

KD

Thought provoking Guinness commercial.